My course is over and I am dreaming in Italian

I had my last lesson last week and I had my exam this morning. My course is over. I can’t believe how quickly the past 10 weeks have flown past.

The first time I came to Italy was with Janet in March 1986, almost 25 years to the day and in a bizarre case of déjà vu, that year Ronald Reagan bombed Libya while we were in Italy, and a few weeks later Chernobyl exploded.

Other than the bizarre repeat of history 25 years later (Libya and Fukushima) two things stick in my mind about my first visit. The first is the very odd feeling that comes from looking like you belong without any of the shared life experience of actually being local. Like when you are asked for directions by Italians and can only shrug your shoulders.

The feeling is very difficult to describe. It actually has its advantages. You are less easily picked as a tourist and I have never been ripped off, even in Naples where I have been four times.

The second was the frustration of not being able to communicate beyond the basics of food, transport and accommodation – especially when Libya was exploding just to the South.

This is my fifth time in Italy. I am now very comfortable here and by virtue of 10 weeks of intensive Italian and having to use Italian everyday to communicate, my language skills are much better than they were.

As Libya and Japan unfolded in recent weeks I could watch Italian television and read Italian newspapers and understand the detail of what was happening in a way that I could not have done 25 years ago.

I am not fluent yet, the grammar still bothers me but I am understanding more and more as each day passes and I am now dreaming in Italian. 

Carnevale in Putignano

The Carnevale celebration in Putignano is one of the biggest and oldest in Italy. I hadn’t even heard of it until I started to do research for my trip and remembered I would be in Italy for Carnevale.

This one has a long history of using Carnevale for biting political and social comment, mercilessly lampooning the politicians of the day. As you would expect Silvio features strongly.

Among others this year’s parade included floats about BP and the Gulf of Mexico, waste disposal, and the North-South divide in Italy. I’m sure if time permitted they would have had a float on Ghaddafi – apparently Silvio and the Colonel are great mates.

It’s great fun and the whole town gets involved with people filling the streets. There will be another parade in the evening of 8 March after which there will be a huge bonfire with the locals partying long into the night – the last chance for gluttony, lusty sinfulness and mischief making before Lent starts on 9 March

That’s enough from me. Instead check out the video and the slide show and as always double click on the pics for bigger images. This link will take you to the Putignano Carnevale website.

News Flash: There is a heaven…

I found heaven today. Well if not exactly heaven then at least heaven’s kitchen. 

It’s a place call Cibus, a restaurant in the hilltop town of Ceglie Messapica about 85kms north east of Lecce.

This town is away from the coast in the hills. It is pastoral country – sheep, cattle, goats and the menu reflects this. No sign of fish or seafood. They take their meat seriously here and roasts are big. Every butcher has their own wood fired oven. You order your meat and they cook it for you. Pick it up, take it home and bog in.

If god eats in restaurants, this would be on his (or her) list. These pictures [click here] will give you a good idea of the feel and look of the town, the restaurant and the food . The best thing I can do here is talk about our food and one of the best meals I have ever had.

How Italians tell the time

I know this is cheating but after my last blog I thought I would give you something to laugh at.

I promise I will do something original next time.

Thanks to my sister Dorina for this one.