Friday, April 8, 2011

The missing Puglia Blogs: #1 – Death in Lecce

Death is a very serious business in Italy and every town has a cemetery that is worth a visit.

The first thing that struck me is that funeral notices are done very differently to Australia. 

Nothing in the papers – instead posters are made announcing the death and the funeral and these are plastered on walls and billboards, presumably near to where the deceased lived.

The second thing that struck me is that above ground burial in crypts is very popular.

Naturally the richer and more important the family, the grander the crypt. Some look like small churches, while others look like houses. And there are community crypts for people who can’t afford their own with tombs stacked up high like marble boxes in a warehouse.

There is some in ground burial while the least popular is cremation – still discouraged by the church and the most expensive. There are only two crematoria in all of Puglia – one in Bari and one in Taranto. Apparently your mortal remains are important for the afterlife – even if there are only a few mouldy bones left – and ashes just won’t do.

The cemetery in Lecce has an old, historic section and a newer one. The old part in particular is a beautiful peaceful place, with crypts dating back many centuries, often looked after with tender loving care. Some are extravagant, some simple and some just beautiful. Double-click on the slide show for a better look.

My favourite grave is the one pictured above. A simple, large slab of stone, looking like a big double bed complete with bed head under which lie the remains of a husband and wife, restfully sleeping as they wait together for judgment day.

There is another judgment day coming. Above ground burial takes up a lot of space and the cemeteries are getting full.

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